Days 93 & 94 - Somewhere in the sky (A little early as I won't have Internet)

How can I begin to describe the past three months. How could I put it in words other than how I have attempted on a daily basis. 94 days, 15 countries in 3 months. But it is more than just counting numbers - it is about the people we have met along the way, the places and history we have experienced and the insatiable appetite to do more traveling. I have been spoilt for choice and have a lifetime of photographic material. I believe traveling changes ones life forever where one is never the same. How can I complain about the things I once thought important now I have seen how others have lived? 

We have driven on German Autobahns and walked the narrow cobbled lanes of Croatia. We have laughed with friends in England, Italy, Korcula and Macedonia and have been saddened by Dachau and what occurred in Sarajevo. We have climbed the heights of many mountain fortresses and ventured to the depths of the sewers in France. We have froze in Scotland and swam in the Adriatic. We have walked among ancient structures and used modern technology to capture it. We have stayed in undesirable areas and lived the life of royals in others. We have had our life enriched by the people of Macedonia and ducked and dived the shopkeepers of Turkey. We have visited tiny countries such as Liechtenstein and lesser known places like Luxembourg. This is a big world and there is plenty to see.

We did this on our own which makes the effort even more rewarding.  We planned and started booking almost two years ago with no travel agency ever involved. It will be nice to return to a place called home. It is safe and a place of comfort but for the past three months we have lived out of our comfort zone which I believe everyone should do at least once in their lifetime. We didn't always know where we might sleep or had to change plans completely and with two kids in tow that wasn't easy.

This was not a holiday but rather an adventure - an adventure that was filled with the unknown, with excitement and sometimes a little fear. I know I will return with a different outlook on life.

I hope you have enjoyed reading about our daily adventures as much as we have enjoyed living it. Bye.

Day 92 - Istanbul Turkey

Photo 1: Where Europe (foreground) meets Asia (Background)

2: Sultanahmed

3: Tilly and her new friend

Today marks the beginning of our 14th week of travel and our last day before spending two more getting home. It is a wet day with a storm that just won't go away. But finally it did so we went on the topless double decker bus tour. Crossing the Galata Bridge, we not only crossed the bridge but crossed over to the Asian continent as this bridge is where Europe meets Asia. The bus tour reinforced that there is much to see in Istanbul. Perhaps one day we will return to see more but in the meantime it's time to pack one last time.

Day 91 - Istanbul Turkey

Photo 1: Me trying a Turkish tea

2: Not sure if this would be legal in Australia

A fairly uneventful day today. The kids are exhausted and pleaded for a lazy day. They have rose to the occasion every time - rising early, dragging bags and sometimes through busy streets and seeing things they weren't particularly interested in. They have done very well.

During breakfast we met with a family from Syria. He is an English literature professor that has lived in America for the past six years. He lectured in Aleppo in Syria and was saddened by the state of that area. He said to us, after some discussion, how his university does not cover Australian literature and we had inspired him to teach this. He had not heard of Banjo Patterson or Henry Lawson but would research them upon return.

Later, we walked down some back streets near the Grand Bazaar. There were lots of amazing shops and markets where people carried huge loads until their backs were horizontal. An incredible walk. Around the corner the traffic was mad, the amount of people was nuts and the pestering to buy wares was crazy. Shopkeepers always have an answer for any reasons we gave to not buy so we have quickly learnt to keep one step ahead. For example pretend to be talking on the mobile or remark that we have already bought one elsewhere. Mind you, the latter doesn't always work as they nearly always want to sell another.

We purchased tickets for an open bus tour for tomorrow after some haggling so the kids could ride free. This will be our last piece of sightseeing before we pack for home.

Day 90 - Istanbul Turkey

l

We are living in fear. Not from the riots but from the local shopkeepers who constantly hound us. We have to agree to look in their shop to have peace but we promise to do it later. Now we have to take different routes to avoid them.

What a huge day today. We were picked up at 6.45am for the 320 klms or 6 1/2 hour bus journey (including breakfast, lunch and breaks) to Gallipoli. We arrived at ANZAC Cove at 1pm. We had a tour guide which was invaluable in learning about each area and what had happened there. We didn't realise how much there was to see.

The dawn service area is not that large yet they accommodate ten thousand people. The mind boggles what the soldiers went through. The trenches including some timber reinforcing walls and shafts are clearly visible. They dug, cut trees and built these under enemy fire. They were then expected to maneuver through terrible terrain and climb incredibly steep land. What remains are national treasures yet the timber and shafts are left unprotected and are deteriorating. They are almost one hundred years old but unless something is done, they certainly won't last another hundred.

There are many cemeteries and memorials for both sides that have been well planned, built and maintained. I managed to find two of my relatives - brothers that were killed a day apart. They are from my fathers mothers side. Most people on the tour were either Australian or New Zealanders and some had documents that they carried specifically to search for a relative.

We left at 5pm and with only one break, arrived home at 10.30. We were all glad that we did this tour. Tilly will learn about Gallipoli at school this year so should be well informed. 

Day 89 - Istanbul Turkey

Photo 1: Inside the Bascillica Cisterrn

2: Outside one of the mausoleums 

3: Outside the Blue Mosque

4: Inside one of the mausoleums

5: Near Hagia Sophia

I've been awoken the last few mornings at 4.20am to the Mullah singing prayers and calling the faithful to services. This lasts for about five minutes and happens a couple of times during the day into the night until 10.45pm. The singing is amplified through a number of speakers attached to each of the six minarets - it's quite loud even with the windows shut. This is transmitted across a number of the large mosques. It's nice but would be nicer a little later in the morning.

K is still not feeling well and needed a fair rest after breakfast. I went for a long walk down some amazing little backstreets where no tourists seem to be only the locals. I asked several people if I could take their picture and all happily agreed and some even thanking me!

Upon return K was active again so we visited the Basilica Cistern. Thanks for the suggestion Helen. This is an underground mosque built 1500 years ago that is partially submerged in water. It's most famous offering are the two columns adorned with Medusa. A very beautiful place. 

We then saw the mausoleums attached to Hagia Sophia that host the immediate families of several Ottoman sultans dating back several centuries. The Hagia Sophia is a former Orthodox patriarchal basilica, later a mosque, and now a museum built almost 1500 years ago.

Tomorrow we have an early start as we spend the day at Gallipoli. 

Day 88 - Istanbul Turkey

Photo 1: Having coffee in the Grand Bazaar

2: Getting home sick

3: In the Grand Bazaar

This time next week we should be inserting our key in our door at home. It seems so long ago we were there. K's really looking forward to it as are the kids. I also was until recently - now I'm not too sure. Breakfast on the terrace with a view of the Blue Mosque and the Marmara Sea - beauuuutiful! 

Off to the Grand Bazaar. It is the oldest and biggest shopping area in the world. The Grand Bazaar is a vast collection of over 4,000 shops, 24 hans (privately owned inns or marketplaces), 65 streets, 22 gates, 2 bedestens (covered markets), restaurants, mosques, fountains, and teahouses within an area of 31 hectares (76 acres). Lots of people, the smell of spices in the air and the hard sell from everyone we walked past. But we did buy but always after a good haggle. We spent a good deal of the day here. 

Returning from the bazaar at the Hippodrome, about 8 men wearing Guy Fawkes masks were scaring a few people by sneaking up on them and I could see some concern on some people's faces. I mention them as the mask is a symbol of the protestors involved in the riots. Several police vans arrived and an unmarked police car so the mask wearers left without any real issues.

We have experienced the warmest weather since leaving Australia so we will enjoy it before returning to an Aussie winter. I write this as I sit on the window ledge looking out our window at the shop vendors chatting as they sit outside together occasionally encouraging passing tourists to look at their wares. Vendors pushing ancient looking trolleys sell watermelon or cooked corn whilst another pulls one filling it with plastic from bins that he must be able to sell on. I could sit here for hours spying on the going ons below me and that is exactly what I intend to do.

Day 87 - Istanbul Turkey

Photo 1: Checkers on the terrace

2: A dinner time view
3: One of the many mosques

The Smartraveller website advises: "to exercise a high degree of caution in Turkey because of the high threat of terrorist attack. Terrorist attacks can occur anywhere at any time in Turkey. In recent years, terrorist attacks have occurred in tourist areas and locations frequented by foreigners who have been killed and injured. Provinces in the southeast of Turkey, including those in the border regions between Turkey and Syria, Iraq and Iran, hold an unpredictable security situation." 

These borders are about 1200 kilometres away and with the amount of tourists Turkey gets each year only a few people are affected. Nevertheless it doesn't hurt to pay attention to our personal safety especially with two children. Furthermore, violent protests continue with three now confirmed dead and many thousands injured. We are in the old city and all seems fine here.

We arrived in Istanbul at 7.15am after only a couple of hours kip on the bus. Immediately we were harassed. One fellow with fresh stitches running down the length of his face insisted pushing our bags to the taxi. The taxi didn't know where the hotel was despite me giving him the address prior. Finally we found the Hippodrome but it was a restaurant not the hotel and our taxi had gone. The Hippodrome is a square where many places are named after it. I walked the streets for ages and asked a dozen people until finally finding it. We couldn't check in until 1pm. We have been on the road since 11am the previous day and were feeling quite ferrel but it gave us the opportunity to have breakfast, explore the Arasta Bazaar, compare possible tour prices and walk the streets. 

We also visited the Sultan Ahmed Mosque or as popularly known, the Blue Mosque for the blue tiles adorning the walls of its interior. It was built from 1609 to 1616, during the rule of Ahmed I. Shop sellers stand outside striking up conversations that they hope will lead to a sale. They can be very persistent when it comes to looking at their wares.

Deciding on a place to eat is tricky as every restaurant (and there are many) encourage eating at their establishment. It takes so long as they all won't take no for an answer. Having said that, our brief experience thus far has seen friendly people who are helpful and like a chat. We ate dinner on a rooftop cafe overlooking the Marmara Sea. Just beautiful and so were the waiters. One made Tilly a rose from paper whilst another gave and showed her how to use a Turkish yoyo. I think the spelling of it is tophatch.

Tomorrow we will spend the day at the Grand Bazaar.

Day 86 - On the overnight bus to Istanbul, Turkey

1. Us on the 209BC Samuil's Wall.
2. A farmer ploughing a neighbour's field
3. In the old town of Orhid (note the building above) 4. A typical male get together

 5. Farewell dinner at Vladko (right)and Ana's (left)
6. One of the pigs Boris offered to slaughter for us.
7. On the verandah with Darko Ivanovski and Bobby

 

We went for a walk yesterday evening and passed this amazing third world pub stuck out in the farming area - I've never seen anything like it. Vele decided to shout the ten drinkers - the total $AU6.00.

After we packed the car it was an emotional farewell to our new friends. There were a few tears from all sides. Finn has Facebooked Darko and Tilly has Monika's email address. Sunka gave us some cheese made from sheep's milk - not a slither but three chunks. She relies on selling this to make some money so it was very generous. She also gave Tilly a bracelet. K bought the adults a packet of cigarettes each and gave the kids some money and I took a photo of the kids which I promised to give her a print.

We have really enjoyed our stay in Macedonia. Sneza and Vele really looked after us and showed us some amazing sights. They also constantly acted as interpreters which must have been so tiring. So thank you Sneza and Vele so much again for opening your house to us and for your warmth and generosity. The people that surround you there are wonderful and proud and we enjoyed every moment with them. It is one of the best places we have visited.

Sneza and Vele drove us to Bitola at 11am where we caught the bus at 1pm to Skopje. We had lunch including three softdrinks, two cappuccinos and four meals including a basket of bread for $AU16.50. This is a three hour trip and arrived at 4.20pm. The overnight Istanbul bus arrived at 6pm. It is a much better one than our trip from Montenegro except the driver and his two offsiders smoked for the duration.

We hit the Macedonian border at 8.45pm and hit problems. I was called off the bus as I did not have a particular document when staying in their country. If we stayed with a hotel, they complete the form. As we stayed with friends we should have gone to the police station and completed one which we then produce at the border. No one obviously knew this including us. After some questions I was told that this was a problem as I had spent six days in their country without any notification. They told me never to do it again. Whew!!!!

We hit the Greek border at 10.05pm which is 100 meters down the road. At 2.45am we took almost an hour to be processed at the Turkish border. Again we're all on very little sleep for our final leg of our three month journey.